Voodoo Lab

Hello and thanks for the answer!
I'm happy to inform that none of my effects seem to have been damaged by my accident, even the Behringer BDI21 survived after I put it back together!
I learned my lession and yes I know that you should never power 9VDC center negative effects with anything higher voltage and/or AC, aswell as center positive. Maybe it wasnt clear in my post but I have all 9VDC effects except one AMT F1 that is on 12VDC, but I forgot to switch the Normal DIP back to 9V, thereby could have damaged any 9V pedal used from that outlet. But it seems theyre allright and well!

What my question was;
Does the Voodoo Lab Pedal Power PLUS 2 have somekind of voltage protection in a case like this? I've tried finding out in my manual and on google but with no avail.
I know its regulated and isolated, so in case I used say a cheap 12V adapter, it might have been a much bleaker outcome?

And my second question; Does damage by using higher voltage come instant or does it develope after time? I think it would be instant from the google searches Ive done.

Thanks!

Hello sorry if this already been asked.
I have been using my PP2+ for 8-10 years and have one pedal run on 12v (dip away from NORMAL) it's a AMT F1 and it's been in that configuration for serveral years now. All my other pedals run on 9vdc.
Anyways a week ago I unplugged all the usual (including the 12v) and messed around with some pedals and totally forgot I had one out at 12v! But nothing seemed to happen to my pedals, except one! It's a Behringer BDI21 (sansamp clone) that I use for recording bass. I noticed that when I was gonna do some scratch tracking last night and saw that the F1 was at 12v, oh * was my first thought! So when I plugged the BDI21 into a correct 9v it didn't work, so I must have plugged it into the 12v. Sorry if this is a mess but I'm trying to get to the point.

All my other pedals are vintage, mostly from the 80's, Ibanez L and 10 series (which run on 9v) but it seem they all survived the 12v! I tried all of the ones (and more) I think might have been run on 12v and they all worked last night, Fingers crossed!

Question 1;
How is this possible? I googled this and cant find anything other than the old pedals are built with larger volt caps and/or are sturdier in construction than modern (and cheap in this instance) pedals. I also looked at some manuals of these old Ibanez and they seem to run at both DC and AC power (sorta like old BOSS pedals).
Could this be it or is there something else, like the PP2+ have some way of regulating the voltages for lower powered pedals? So if I'd run the 9v pedals on some cheap wallwart 12v theyd be toast?
Also I opened up the BDI21 and couldn't see or smell anything funky, the LED works but no signal comes thru bypassed or ON.
Anyway I thank the spirits that it wasnt one of my vintage pedals that failed and just a cheap one (still hope they are fine).

Question 2;
If there was a power surge in volts would that be instant or can that develope in the future, over time? I hope not.

This is really the first time something like this has happened to me, I'm always really safe when powering gear and look up everything, and when I'm not sure Ive always asked here, and I have to say you guys are really great at this! You have saved people lots of money and time! THANKS!!!

Hello, I wonder what inputs would work for a Digitech Chorus Factory CF-7. I cant find the current draw for it anywhere but the adapter (also discontinued) for it is rated for 9.6V 300mA so Im guessing more than 100mA?

Which inputs for the Digitech Multi Chorus? Seen 110mA on stinkfoot, is this accurate?

Also the Fulltone Choralflange, supposed to draw 35mA of current but is it safe to power using 1-8? The manual indicates its picky with too much or too little power also the voltage needs to be at a spot on 9V.

Thanks

Running it to a PP2+ it seems to run from any of the outs since it's low current, but the center positive plug-in I don't get.
Do I have to order a center + cable or will the Red-barrel one work for the FB-3?
thanks

Bought the cheapest one and it seem to be working allright.
Thank you

Thank you again JohnClark, you're the man!

So any transformer/converter that goes to 110V will work? I figured if it goes down to "110" it should go to "120" first, right?

300W would also be overkill? http://www.kjell.com/se/sortiment/el/st ... 0-w-p44098

or a cheaper one of 100W would work? http://www.kjell.com/se/sortiment/el/st ... 0-w-p44096

sorry it's all in swedish but they're the only ones here I've found that are acceptable. It just says; for US-electronics to EU. grounded or nongrounded.

Thanks again!

OK, thanks for fast answer!

I've been frying my brain on finding a converter and in this country (sweden) theres only converters for 230V to 110V (which wouldn't work?).

Anyway just a question would this work? http://www.thomann.de/se/tube_amp_docto ... v500va.htm

something called Tube Amp Doctor Transformer 230/115V 500VA seems to be for amps mostly.

Hello, I have a couple of questions;

1. Can I power a TUBEWORKS REAL TUBE (the black with yellow letters and 5 knobs) from a Euro 230V PP2+?

and if that's possible, as far as I know;

2. I´ll have to go thru the Courtesy AC outlet since the REAL TUBE comes with a cord.

3. What kind of adapter or cable will I use from the Courtsey outlet to the REAL TUBE? Some kind of IEC? what voltage does it have to have.

the REAL TUBE voltage requirements; 120VAC, 9WATTS

Thank you so much! You're the man!

You've spared me alot of hassel!

Ordered some PPAV's and some of your other cables. Gonna be cool having it all set up.

Just wanna say you guys at voodoo labs are doing an amazingly good job!

Thanks again!

Ahh thanks man!

This is very good info!

Maybe a stupid question but Im just getting into this:

If I use the PPAV Output Splitter will I be able to use it thru #6 (if the Octa goes to #5) on the PP+2?
As long as the two effects dont go over 250 mA together that is.